[Part two of two. See part one.]
We made one excursion out of Taipei, to Ri Yue Tan (Sun Moon Lake). After taking the high-speed rail to Taichung, we boarded a bus and arrived at the lake after about two hours.
It’s pretty exquisite.
We walked through the forested Hanbi Trail and ended up at the back entrance of the Lalu hotel, which was a bit strange, but exciting nonetheless. As the hotel staff took care of our check-in paperwork, they showed us to a seat in the lobby and served us perfectly salted almonds and a much-desired drink of cool lemonade. After being shown to our room, which boasted a magnificent view, we were prepared to declare this place heaven on earth. The clouds drift low over the mountains, enhancing that image.
The lotus flower that greeted us.
I only wish I had the means to stay at this hotel again. It was incredibly luxurious; some would call it overpriced, but I think the experience was worth it. You simply can’t argue with that view.
We took a lot of pictures around the hotel. :P A light rain came and passed as they served us afternoon tea, a small snack, and fresh, crisp lei (pears). The lotus flowers adorning the grounds floated on, undisturbed by the weather—and a rainbow appeared within minutes. At night, we treated ourselves to the five-course meal at the hotel’s Western restaurant, and the next day to a light snack at the tea house.
We explored the small (but incredibly atmospheric) library, and even paid a visit to the gym—to look around, though. The weights were too new to be comfortable in hand, and I doubt anyone really goes to this hotel to work out. ;)
This butterfly was perched right in front of us, so I had to take a picture. But either it had landed there to die, or someone must have killed it—because by the time we came around again, it was in pieces.
On a happier note, Sun Moon Lake, but the Lalu especially, was an extraordinary experience that I won’t forget anytime soon.
Being treated as honored guests, and surrounding ourselves with so much elegance and luxury, it actually didn’t seem that we had to worry about money. I felt as if the Lalu was someplace on a different plane, someplace far removed from mundane, worldly matters. Of course, that’s not the case in reality, but it’s a far cry from the way I felt in Japan, that every tenth of a yen mattered.
Japan was incredibly harrowing this time around, mainly because I often felt that my Japanese skills weren’t good enough to handle the situations we encountered. We got lost a lot. Not knowing where the hotels were was the first straw; not finding something where I’d drawn it on a crude map was far from the last. Being limited to five or six days was difficult, too.
Kitsune statue at Fushimi Inari shrine.
But we did do the most important items on our itinerary. I took J. to my beloved Ryoanji (♥) and we both saw Fushimi Inari for the first time. Foxes are the best! We ran through the torii à la Memoirs of a Geisha, which I’ve never seen. Man, I felt like such a tourist. And now I just feel like a poser. It’s okay, though, because I encountered a white couple from San Jose, and they’re more gaijin than I am! (Wait, they live in Japan now. So I’m just a racist. Sigh.)
Anyway. J. and I had been playing The World Ends With You (DS) like mad, so we made a stop in Shibuya and ran around the scramble, as well as up and down Center Street. (We also later stayed in a love hotel in Udagawa, but that’s another story.) In some of the arcades, they now have a Gundam game where you enter a pod and get to pilot a Gundam as if you’re actually in the suit. There’s a headphone for you to teamspeak with other players in the arcade or online.
It’s actually called Gundam P.O.D., for “panoramic optical display.”
Oh, right. Figuring this game out was especially harrowing, because I had absolutely no idea how to play, there seemed to be a line of people waiting, and I felt like I couldn’t let J. down because he really wanted to try it. In the end, I talked to a Japanese guy who was pretty chill; he explained it to me very patiently and in easy-to-understand terms. So J. got his fun, and I got my motion sickness. :[
The robot from Laputa at the Ghibli Museum.
In the end, I got my fun at the Ghibli Museum. What can I say? It was absolutely magical. It was unlike anything else. The Totoro zoetrope centerpiece in the permanent exhibit left me breathless. The recreation of the artists’ rooms was especially touching, as the walls are lined with sketches and memorabilia from every Ghibli movie.
The Laputa robot’s cousin at Taipei Main Station.
We saw one of the “secret short films” at the theater: Mizugumo Monmon. Definitely a treat, but spoiled by a baby bawling through the whole thing. Parents: SUCK IT UP AND TAKE YOUR BABY OUTSIDE. More spoilers included people blatantly taking photos, including one trio that insisted on capturing themselves every three steps up one of the (narrow, beautiful) spiral staircases.
Anyway, on our way back from the Ghibli Museum, we stopped at the Cat Cafe Calico in Kichijoji. You may have heard about it before… I think I nearly died of the cute. (This was the place that was so hard to find.) The cafe’s tucked away on the 4th floor of a building near the station, and after scrubbing your hands, you can play with kitties and enjoy a drink or two.
The people there were extremely friendly, and you could tell that they absolutely loved cats. I got to making pretty regular conversation with one of them, who informed me that they had 26 cats and that the one dog belonged to the owner. (I wasn’t sure who the owner was; it might have been the man who had a cat mincing all over his shoulders and back? So cute.) I told her that I really liked “Letoro,” a very regal- and motherly-looking black cat. I said the kittens moved around a little too fast for me and that I liked Letoro because she was quiet and majime (serious). She then showed me a photo album of Letoro when she was a kitten! I couldn’t believe it, and I thought that was really nice of her.
Go on, admire me. You know you want to.
So that was extremely cool, and if we weren’t so short on time I would’ve definitely gone back. Instead, I went to go meet my seastar and her boyfriend at the posh Grand Prince Hotel Akasaka, where they were staying for a wedding. At first I had some difficulty finding that, too, and then I realized, “Oh. It’s the huge thing.”
We hung out and went to go eat at Crayon Kitchen, off Omote-sando (delicious, organic eats!), and the next day Ootoya (savory, satisfying eats!). We also noshed on cakes (♥) and did some fabulous rounds of karaoke.
Tanabata! With Kat and Greg.
On the morning we left, they treated us to a superb breakfast buffet at the Hotel New Otani. It was the best I could ask for. Thanks, seastar, and happy birthday~ :)
And that about wraps it up. Hope to see this side of the world again soon…